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CW 30 2003

21.07. - 27.07.2003

SILVER BLUE is still lying in front of Kuanidup. And it really is beautiful here.

By now we've made friends with Miguel, the guy who works here on the island. We can buy pineapples, salad, tomatoes, cucumbers, limes and bananas from him, for a friendship-price of US $ 3,50. He says that, since we have fresh fruit and vegetables again now we might as well stay a little longer. Well, we're more than happy to comply!

  
   Therefore, on Tuesday, we're returning to Rio Sidra with him and a few others, in his canoe. This one is fitted with an outboard engine, although these "Ulus" are usually sailed. "Ulus" are the usual means of transportation here.

The reason for our visit in Rio Sidra is a so-called "Chica-Party", a celebration lasting 3 days, to honor the girls whos social status changes from girl to woman at about 12 years old. This is when the girl gets the first colorful tunic of the Kuna woman. It is customary for the girls' father to invite the whole village for the 3-day-festival, which is usually more than gladly accepted. The celebrations continue day and night.

During the first day people only drink "Chica", the sugar cane juices fermented with coffee. After some time that produces Alcohol, and apparently not just a little. Around noon the large community seems rather tipsy, especially the ladies in their festive clothing.
On the parties second day, apart from plenty of food, only rum is served. The same on the third day and then the festival ends when the girls' hair is cut, as a symbol of her having become a woman.
These festivals can cost the father a couple of thousand dollars and are a great financial burden on him. That's also the reason why Porvenir doesn't have an immigration officer any more: because he came up with the great idea of spending all the fees he had collected on such a festival …

After a short visit to this "Chica-Party" we return to SILER BLUE where we are expected by our gecko family (we've counted 3 by now) and a beautiful "Mariposa" (right).

During the night we get the much-feared southerly wind, the "Culo de pollo", blowing with more than 40 knots. Thankfully it only lasts for 20 minutes and the next morning fishermen offer us their catch, 5 pretty crayfish for only 7$.

  
  

An offer we couldn't resist and also, it's about time to try out a recipe from my friend Bernd Schierloh who considers himself to be a master cook. We're having pasta with lobster. For it a delicious sauce is made form the animals shells and together with the tender crayfish meat it's simply irresistibly. Tania and Jean who we'd invited also felt that way.

Jean has already been sailing around between these islands for 5 years, so we decide to sail to Chiceme again with him on Thursday. He knows a Kuna family there rather well. The Lady of the house prepares an Arroz con coco in her kitchen hut, we grill a nice fish and we all spend a great afternoon together.
It's very interesting to see exactly how the Kunas live in their palm-leave covered bamboo huts. Since there is no extra floor and no cupboards, everything is hung up under the roof and the people sleep in hammocks.

Apart from a few chicken a cute little monkey who even wearing earrings live here.

On Saturday we sail to the close by Porvenir. Maybe we can sign out here now, after all, it's time for us to get back to Cartagena.
Unfortunately that's still not possible and after considering our options we decide to sail to Puerto Obaldia on Panamas eastern coast. You're supposed to be able to sign out there.
On Sunday our fist stop is the Hollandes-Cays again.
More about our trip to Obaldia … next week.

  

Until then
Take care

TOM