Archiv
KW22 2001
24.06.2001 - 30.06.2001
Sunday, June 24, and we are leaving Porto Rotondo. But, first we have to
get some provisions for the coming week. So we make our way straight through
the marina, to the supermarket, all the way on the other side.
After buying there we pack our groceries and ourselves onto the loading area
of a pick-up truck and are taken back to the ship - a free delivery service.
Not bad, is it?
There is nothing you can't get in Porto Rotondo. You can even buy thick fur
coats in summer here. The boutiques - superb. It glitters and sparkles everywhere,
in the shop windows and in front of them.
Well, it's the Costa Smeralda, and all is about seeing and being seen.
We've seen enough though and we'd rather see to getting going slowly but surely,
otherwise the demurrage for another day becomes due. And, most important,
Formel 1 is on today.
So we need a nice bay to watch TV in.
After quickly refuelling a few litre diesel we're directly off to the Isola
Mortorio, into one of the overcrowded bays. It's rather busy everywhere today,
which isn't surprising: a weekend and finest weather. Although we do find
a nice place to drop anchor, we unfortunately don't find a TV channel transmitting
the race. Apparently the problems with broadcasting rights are the same in
Italy as in Germany. So no Formel 1, which of course is bitter.
| If that's the way things are we'll go to Tahiti. Yes, that's right, Tahiti Bay. That's what the Cala Coticcio on the Island Caprera is called. A beautiful bay with huge rocks shaped by the water and two small, idyllic sand beaches. This is just the place to spend a little more time at. With the anchor dropped and the stern rope fastened we lie here perfectly. Since this bay seems to be a well-liked place to drop anchor during the day, it becomes rather quiet in the evening and we only share the place with another sailing boat and plenty of fish - which makes the fisher in me very happy. But the fish aren't biting properly … at least not yet … unlike the annoying mosquitoes that bite non-stop. |
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We have the bay to ourselves for almost all of Monday morning. Just us and
plenty of fog, but that doesn't make the place any less idyllic.
As the fog lifts, motorboats, sailing ships and rubber dinghies start coming
in. And since the peace is broken we might as well get some work done.
I suppose I'll make it a laundry day and do some washing.
Well equipped as we are, we even have a washing machine on board. The thing
is called Wonderwash and is operated manually. Yep, that's right, manual labour
is called for. After a lot of cranking and rinsing 6 loads of laundry are
hung on the ropes. With lines strung everywhere we could easily do a commercial
for some washing powder. Speaking of lines, the men also worked on some today
and replaced the traveller and the main schot.
Looks good!
Tonight not only the mosquitoes bite, no even the fish do. With 4 beautiful
fish Tom secured lunch for tomorrow.
Actually we wanted to start the new day - it's Wednesday - with a morning
dive, but unfortunately that's not going to happen.
So we leave the Isola Caprera and sail towards the Straight of Bonifacio.
On the way we take a little break in the Cala Spalmatore at the Isola La Maddalena.
After a nice, becoming fish dish we set course towards the northern point
of Sardinia.
Budelli, Santa Maria and Razzoli are the names of the 3 northern islands of
the Maddalena Archipelago. They form the bay Cala Giorgio Marino, which offers
a breathtaking view of the Straight of Bonifacio.
To drop anchor here requires a lot of patience, since firstly a lot of other
people also like this spot and secondly the ground isn't very good to anchors,
which means that you get to try a few times. But hey, all's well that ends
well.
The anchor holds and the view is phenomenal. From here you can also look down
the Straight of Passo Cecca di Morto which translates to suicide passage.
The rocky, narrow passage separates the islands Budelli and Santa Maria and
probably owes its name to its special nature. After all, a water depth of
just 1.80m isn't exactly to be recommended for passing through.
A water temperature of 25°C leaves us with no choice, so off we go for a pleasing
swim. Alex, being artistic today, jumps from the bow.
After splashing around we'll be a little creative today. After all, as I mentioned
before, we're well equipped on board and that's why Tom still has an appointment
at the hairdresser today. Hair studio Diana. Snip snap off they go!
On Wednesday Tom is back at the rudder with a trendy hairstyle and we take
off to explore the southern tracks of the Maddalena Archipelago.
The only one who doesn't seem to want to go along with us is the wind. Since
the gusts of wind and the seas are getting stronger we find us a little bay
where we want to wait for the weather to pass. So we drop anchor in the Cala
Marmorata, a bay with a nice big sand beach. The huge Club Mediterraneé complex
on the hill, that has nothing in common with the style of the other houses
along the coast, is anything but pretty.
At least we don't have to suffer that sight for very long. The wind has grown
stronger which means that we can't stay here any more.
After only 7 miles we drive into a long fjord, Porto Pozzo. We sight a few
mooring buoys, quickly go for one and moor there. We take the dinghy to shore
and as we want to pay for the buoy we find out, that this is a sports club
and not open to the public. Ups!
But they let us stay - and even for free. We're invited. Isn't that nice?
Thank you very much!
On Thursday morning we leave Porto Pozzo, but our leg is rather short again.
After only 4 more miles we drop anchor in Porto Liscia.
Various other sailing ships and motor boats have also found protection from
the strong winds here. The only ones enjoying the up to 44 knots fast winds,
are the wind-surfers and they are dashing back and forth across the bay.
Since there is no improvement to be expected we stay and wait to see what
the weather will be doing tomorrow.
Friday morning - and it's all over: bright blue sky, sunshine and sailing-wind.
But first we'll have breakfast. Late, yes, but not just any breakfast. No,
today we'll have Banana Pancake made by Tom.
And that, once again, takes us on a culinary excursion through our on-board
kitchen.
You need:
3 ripe bananas. Peel and puree them with a mixer.
4 eggs,
5 tablespoonfuls flour,
a pinch of salt,
2 tablespoonfuls sugar, and
50 ml mineral water and
50 ml milk.
Mix everything together.
Bake this dough in a pan with hot oil, just like regular pancakes.
The baked Banana Pancakes are served with a glass of honey and limes - squeeze
limejuice all over them (lemon juice will also do), spread honey over them,
roll them up - finished!
This recipe is from Thailand, but luckily you can eat them anywhere.
Ok, but now let's chain anchor and go.
We're sailing again. We continue along the southern islands of the Maddelena
Archipelago, formed by the 4 islands Isola Spargi, Isola La Maddelena, Isola
Santo Stefano and Isola Caprera.
There are a lot of ferries crossing between the islands, which means that
we have to be careful and make way for them, even with set sails since the
ferries go full speed ahead. Having passed all the ferry traffic there are
fascinating things to be seen along the group of islands and along the coast.
| For example Punta Palau. Here you see a rock looking just like a bear
on top of a mountain. This rock was formed by nature, by wind and water.
Very impressive! We came across such impressive rocks and actual rock sculptures a few times during our trip. Almost as impressive is the architecture of some cities. The houses are integrated into the landscape in such a way, that you almost overlook some of the houses. But not, because they aren't beautiful, no, quite the contrary. They are just so unobtrusively beautiful. For example, Punta Sardenga with its Porto Rafael. A true feast for the eyes. I can hardly get enough. Still, we don't stay here, but continue past Capo d´ Orso towards our next stop, which is only 6 more nautic miles away. We've set course to Poltu Quatu with the Marina dell´Orso. |
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First thing after landing - we have a really nice cup of cappuccino in a
bar right by the landing stage. Mmmmm!
 Dell´Orso is a nice and well kept Marina, imbedded in these fascinating granite rocks that are even partly light at night. |
 The tastefully designed complex has beautiful flowers and palm trees everywhere, creating a magnificent atmosphere. |
The friendly Marina staff - always friendly, courteous and helpful - make
our stay especially pleasant.
Apart from that, there is a lot going on here. Besides a sailing school and
a diving club there are tennis courts. You can rent motor boats, rubber dinghies
as well as cars. On the gastronomically side: a few restaurants, a pizzeria,
gelateria, coffee bar, bakery, American bar, a disco and a piano bar. Actually
there's something for everyone. Basically you can get anything you need in
one of the many shops in the complex or in the supermarket in the holiday
resort, even today's "Süddeutsche Zeitung" (a newspaper). For those travelling
by ship there's a shop selling spare parts for ships that can also do small
repairs.
And those not travelling by ship can find accommodation in the apartments
of the holiday resort and in spring 2002 a new hotel will open.
All in all it's definitely worth a visit.
Today is Saturday, June 30 and our trip with Alex and Carola is coming to
an end. Together we give SILVERBLUE one last wash and Tom and I need to do
a little shopping, since our trip continues towards the Baleares.
For a last dinner together we go to a Pizza place on the Marina and after
going for a little walk we're off to bed early. And that's it for today and
this week.
Imagine all, that this new week has brought us ... see you again in a week:
same time, same place!
So long.
