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CW 09 2002

24.02.2002 - 02.03.2002

Today is Sunday, February 24, and we're still on this Robinson Crusoe Island, Tobago. In 1719 Daniel Defoe used this place for the scenery for the experiences and adventures of his hero Robinson Crusoe.
No surprise, looking at these beautiful beaches here. According to a statistic there's one kilometre of beach for every one visitor.
That can really help you feel like Robinson himself, doesn't it?
To give you an impression of this charming place, two pictures showing the Man of War Bay.

  

So we're enjoying the surrounding, only relaxing. And we'll do the "doing this and that" when we feel like it. On a ship, there's always something that needs to be done, repaired, maintained. But now that we have time we'll get that done with a different feeling altogether.
So we can take everything a little easier and that's why nothing's on our agenda today. Besides … a band well known in Tobago and Trinidad, the 3 Canals, are performing here in Charlotteville tonight. We read in the newspaper, that they're supposed to be the best Soca-band. They're performing in the Banana Boat Bar tonight and we also planning to go.
It's supposed to start at 8pm and the whole town seems to be up and going. A lot of people from neighbouring villages are also here. As we get there catchy rhythms are already roaring from the speakers and cool beer, Carib, is flowing.
An hour later it finally starts and three guys really get the crowd heated up.
Short but effective: they play 4-5 songs live and then they're gone again. The handling was nice and easy here as well, no blocking off people or something like that, on the contrary, the dancing crowd was hardly 0,5m away from the band.
Without further announcement the band disappears again and we get playback music again. We stay on for a while, meet a few other, friendly sailors and then we also take off again. After taking off our shoes we walk along the beach, back to the small landing where our dinghy, that'll take us back, is lying.
Monday calls for an experimental work performance.
We told you last week that this problem with the foresail rolling system started up again. Today Thomas and Karl want to take a closer look. To do that they spread a couple of lines, thin and thick ones, into different directions, in order to see where something is loose. After a long debate both men agree that we apparently have a problem with the ships structure. This is not good at all. Now we have to get information on the ships construction, get plans of the ship so we can figure out where to start looking for the fault. But one thing is for sure: we can't sail any more!
For us that means that we have to go and find an appropriate wharf where they can fix things like this. Probably won't be too easy. Ok, that's enough for today. We're having a relaxed dinner with Alexandra and Karl at our place and a few ideas to this problem come up. Oh well, we'll find a way.
On Tuesday we have to find out where to get information on the ships construction. So we go to an internet café in the afternoon to look for the email-addresses of those who constructed the ship. We're not very successful, but another sailor gives us an address where we immediately send our enquiries to.
In the evening a spontaneous gathering takes place on the Gryllos. Thomas and I only stopped by quickly, but then 4 other sailors, who'd been travelling today, also came along and brought 2 fish that they caught themselves.
Alexandra quickly put the fish in the oven, well done and tasty, and we all got something to eat as well. Later Ute and Erich, with their daughter Julia, also joined us. They're also sailing around the world, on their Ketch, named after their daughter Julia. We sit together until late at night, until all the dinghies disappear and we also make our way home.
And if it was a late night, one can also sleep late the next day, or not? Or rather, stay in bed late, after all, every day here is greeted with a loud bird concert from the rainforest.
And today Thomas and I want to take a closer look at that. In the afternoon, equipped with long trousers and anti-mosquito-spray, we go ashore on the beach and straight on into the forest. Gerhard and Felix saw parrots here; lets see if we're also that lucky. Although, we're not on an organized tour, we're just wandering around by ourselves.
And really, during dusk they all come back. We have no idea, what the names of all these different kinds of birds are. We find one or the other bird described in a book later, but we're never absolutely sure. But what we also saw were those extraordinarily beautiful green parrots. We didn't see them very close, but if four or five of those screeching birds fly over you, … that's not too bad.
Using the binoculars we look at the treetops and see a few other birds, but before we're eaten by mosquitoes or can't find the way back in the dark, we make our way back. We also found some of these "stone plants". Aren't they called Tilandsien or something like that? You can buy those at nurseries, usually stuck onto a stone. Those grow here, as parasite plants, in vast amounts and all sizes. They're just lying around here.
More and more bats arrive during dusk and with some of them you wonder, whether they've got their ultrasonic devices under control, because they do get very close to you. It seems advisable to duck quickly. Leaving the forest and getting back to the beach some locals invite us to a BBQ, but it's time for us to get back aboard since it's time to get dinner going, or rather, into the oven.
The Wahoo we caught last week was rather large and we've still got plenty of fish in the freezer, so we asked Alexandra and Karl if they felt like having fish. So we spend another relaxing evening together, under a full moon. That's so beautiful!
Thursday, and it'll be bread baking day. It's about time we baked some nice self-made full-grain bread again. You can almost only buy white bread here, or as we call it, squishy bread. It's anything but healthy and sometimes it tastes like and old cardboard box. We've got the best ingredients for a good loaf of bread, since Christina and Bernd as well as Gerhard and Felix supplied us with the finest baking ingredients and we still have good Slovenian flour. And while the oven is nice and hot we'll also make nice raisin bread.

In the mean time Thomas is battling with the laptop and our navigation software which isn't working properly any more.
To relax again angling is just the right thing for the evening. Thomas anyway wanted to thoroughly test the new little fishing rod in peace. But that thorough testing doesn't work, or rather, isn't necessary, because, as soon as the line is in the water there's a fish on the hook. But the first one was too small, so it's taken off the hook and thrown back into the water. Well, since that's what happens, a larger hook is fastened to the line. Thomas catches 3 nice red barbs and then it's time to stop fishing since dinner is ready.
  

On Friday Thomas and I go for a nice walk on the beach before we go shopping. Apparently it's market-day in Charlotteville on Fridays and, so to say, the market is brought to the village. Of course there are small fruit and vegetable stands everywhere on the streets here, where you can shop every day, but Fridays a dealer comes by car and there's supposed to be more diversity, fresher goods and they're also supposed to be cheaper.
This car is expected by many yachties, but also by many locals. And then there's someone else who's supposed to come. The butcher. But he only comes in the evening, because then it's not so hot any more and that's quite an advantage since he doesn't come with a refrigerator wagon or something like that, no, he comes with a normal pick up truck with his meat in the back. Normal plastic boxes, with meat in them, simply covered with plastic bags.
One box with beef and one with pork. We're all standing around, waiting for our turn, but that could be a while. First it's the locals' turn and then ours, the whitefaces. As soon as it's your turn your only aloud to say, and preferably quickly, if you want beef or pork and what you want to make out of it. Then you can hope for a good piece of meat. There is no choosing, no saying I'd like this and that. He also pretty much decides on the amount, just accepting, wordlessly, an "it may be a little more". The fact that he cuts the meat on a simple wooden block, a piece from a tree trunk about 30cm high, lets you forget everything about hygiene-laws and similar rules you know from Germany. Well, different rules apply here and there's nowhere else you could get fresh meat here.
We get something cool to drink at a small bar and then we go back aboard before it gets dark, because Thomas still wants to get his fishing rod out for a while. So we drive back to the ship. I take care of our groceries and slowly start preparing dinner and Thomas has all reason to be happy again: he caught a young barracuda. Anglers luck! If that carries on like that we'll get a nice fish platter. But since we got back quite late it's already getting dark and it's better to stop fishing.
Saturday morning and our day starts early, with thick raindrops falling right into our faces. The last day of the week starts with heavy rain. But the sun is already shining, and what do we get then? Exactly, a beautiful rainbow!
It's worth getting up early for a sight like this.
Looking outside a little closer we see a slightly different view than what we saw the days before. It seems that the amount of turning we did loosened our anchor. So we weigh anchor and drop it again, but not on the same spot, but a little closer to shore. The advantage is, that we can go diving right off the boat; what we wanted to do today anyway. So we're anchored in the corner and are even closer to the rainforest, experience the chirping concert from up close and can even see the birds in the trees from aboard.
We go on a beautiful dive. Just as we're descending we find ourselves in the middle of a school of countless tiny fish.
We're down there for three quarters of an hour and can hardly get enough of the many colourful fish and corals. We see a lot of parrotfish and, to our surprise, a pretty school of calamari. The most beautiful fish we saw today was an impressive and large emperor fish. It's simply always impressive, what there is to see down there. At the beginning of our dive we took a look at our anchor and how it's lying and we immediately knew we'll have to change anchor position again later, since it's only attached to one large stone and if we turn again the anchor would most probably not hold any more.
So we surface, take our equipment off and immediately make our way back to the anchor place we were occupying before. But not having to take the dinghy to go diving was definitely worth it.
Diving makes you hungry, so we start making goulash from the meat we bought yesterday. After dinner we pick up Alexandra and Karl and go ashore for a beer. There's supposed to be a party at one of the restaurants today, but somehow nothing much is happening. So we go to the next bar. There is something happening there, but only due to a few totally drunk tourists. That might be quiet amusing to watch for a while, but we don't need that the whole evening. Off to the next bar where we have a relaxed drink and finally walk back. In the mean time the atmosphere of the bar we were in first has improved so we take a little stop-over there before we make our way back home and end this day and week.

… what the next week brought us
… here, in one week:
same time, same place!

So long

Diana + Thomas

Guy de Maupassant said:
" Encountering people is what makes life worth living. "
And right he is.
This will be the last quote we cite here since these " clever remakrs " could easily be misunderstood or misinterpreted. That wasn't our intention and not what we wanted and to keep that from happening we'll stop before the quote from last weeks logbook (" How often does a word divide us instead of bringing us together ? ") comes true.
Besides, you can buy this little booklet, from the Herder Verlag,
ISBN- 3-451-26943-0

Even if we didn't give one last week, we'll give one again this week, a culinary tip !
Today it's a starter, but they're also nice as little snack :

Baked tomatoes (serves 4)

8 medium sized tomatoes
iodized salt, pepper, a few thymian stems, half a bunch of parsley and of chives, 1 garlic clover, 2 tablespoonfuls of ground parmesan, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of olive paste or simply tomatoe concentrate (in that case add more spices)
Wash tomatoes, dry them and cut them in half. Set them into a slightly greased baking pan, cut sides facing up, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Peel the garlic and chopp up together with the thymian and parsley. Cut chives into small rolls. Mix with the parmesan, bread crumbs, tapenade (or tomatoe concentrate) and the pepper and spread over the tomatoes.
Gratinate at 200°C for 8 minutes.
Enjoy !